New research findings that artificial hair, wigs, weave-ons, and other synthetic hair extensions contain toxic contaminants that can damage women’s health are disturbing amidst the popularity of these fashion items. The Standards Organisation of Nigeria, the National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control, and other public regulatory agencies should engage in unfettered investigations to ascertain the findings, sensitise the public, and ensure the overall well-being of citizens.
A new research paper from the Federal University of Technology, Owerri, states that after testing various Nigerian and international brands of synthetic hair extensions they contain silver, cadmium, chromium, nickel, vanadium, lead, and several pesticides. This is alarming.
The paper, by Dike Njere, titled: Potential Hazards Associated with Wearing of Synthetic Hairs, found nitrates, several compounds of pesticides, and heavy metals in significant amounts. “One of them, lead, is used in stabilising the polyvinyl chloride that the synthetic hair is made of,” it said. “Lead compounds (such as basic lead carbonate, lead stearate, and lead phthalate) prevent heat, light, or wear and tear from breaking down the PVC, and make it easier to form into shapes.”
Unfortunately, lead can cause kidney, liver, and lung damage. It causes skin irritation, asthma, and cardiovascular diseases, and affects the reproductive and nervous systems. Nitrates, on the other hand, can cause cancer, enlargement of the thyroid gland, and blood disorders.
Researchers have found that exposure to these chemicals can damage vital organs, and cause infertility, birth defects, asthma, and bronchitis. Other associated ailments are attention deficit, hyperactivity disorder, endocrine system disruption, and respiratory diseases.
Nigerian women – like many women of African descent – use wigs and synthetic hair extensions to enhance their beauty and for convenience. They purchase different wigs to reflect global beauty trends, and to save the cost, stress, and time lost to making new natural hair weekly.
While many African women adopt the use of wigs to boost their appearance due to hair loss, they grapple with alopecia—a condition where the immune system attacks their hair follicles and leads to hair loss, or traction alopecia—where hairstyles involving pulling of hair strands lead to hair loss from the roots.
Over the years, there has been an unpalatable rise in maternal mortality, infertility, heart diseases, diabetes, respiratory illness, and breast and cervical cancer in Nigeria. Nigerians spent $7.4 million on medical tourism between June 2022 and June 2023. This may continue to increase due to poor lifestyle and beauty choices.
Therefore, the government should improve healthcare and safeguard its citizens from harmful consumables and products. It should activate existing environmental and consumer protection laws and sanctions.
The government should incentivise the private sector, especially those in the synthetic hair business to produce sustainable, environmentally friendly, and healthier alternatives. Although some experts consider using hyperon, an advanced synthetic alternative, others prefer natural alternatives like ethically sourced human hair extensions and hair made from banana fibres.
Public regulators should give a timeframe to hair manufacturing firms to comply with the new era of healthy extensions. If not, immediate enforcement might disrupt the economic ecosystem, affecting formal and informal jobs. They should engage the companies and negotiate a feasible moratorium to transit from synthetic to better hair alternatives.
According to various estimates, at least eight out of 10 Nigerian women wear wigs. Intelpoint, a data and research platform stated that Nigeria imported synthetic hair products such as wigs, false beards, eyebrows, eyelashes, and others worth $5.1 million in 2022.
Statista forecasted a surge in revenues in the global haircare market, projecting the revenue generated per person to rise from $1.2 billion in 2023 to $1.3 billion in 2024.
Nigeria should learn from Australia, Japan, Kenya, and Uganda where government policies, private efforts, sensitisation, labelling, and certification provide a clear and sustainable option for users of haircare products.
